There are few dishes in the restaurant world that are more debated, and more enjoyed, than the famed macaroni & cheese.  No dish creates a more unique battle of old school vs. new school.  In the Los Angeles restaurant scene, many restaurants have their own version of the childhood staple that became famous due to a blue box and powdered cheese.  But when it comes down it, Mac & Cheese is comfort food, and sometimes, chefs take a few too many liberties when trying to put their own stamp on a true classic.

At The Bowery on Sunset Blvd in Los Angeles, their Macaroni au Gratin is a perfect example of a restaurant trying to reinvent the wheel… and unfortunately, failing miserably.  With a three cheese blend of gruyere, cheddar, and parmesan, and topped with buttered bread crumbs, it is a generic attempt at an artisan creation.  My first bite was watery, simply meaning that the cheese was not given time to thicken, and the gruyere, although enjoyable, overpowered the cheddar completely.  The parmesan was not even incorporated into the cheese sauce, and was baked on top of the dish with the breadcrumbs, preventing all of the ingredients to meld.  Although The Bowery creates a wonderful gastropub environment reminiscent of some of my favorite places in New York with their black leathered seats, tiled brick walls, dark wood tables, chalkboard menu, and a cathedral-like bar, simplicity has been oversimplified, and flavor has been forgotten.  Some of the menu items do hit the mark, specifically the Sirloin Burger served on an English muffin with your choice of an array of cheeses, bacon, and sautéed vegetables and Confit Pork with Braised Red Cabbage and Cider Mustard Reduction.  However, when looking at the rest of the menu, although it is a true reflection of traditional gastropub fare, it lacks the culinary imagination of some of its Los Angeles gastropub counterparts like Father’s Office and The Village Idiot.

Two doors west of The Bowery lies Magnolia, an urban chic lounge serving California cuisine in a spacious and uniquely designed environment.  Walking in, you feel like you walk into 1950’s Hollywood with a modern twist, surrounded by varied metallic shades adorning the walls, ceiling, tables and chairs, and leading you to an ivory marbled bar with suspended shelves showcasing bottles of booze.  The dim, recessed yellow lighting casts a unique shadow upon its patrons, and gives the restaurant the allure of something special.  Disappointed by the Mac & Cheese at The Bowery, I was still hungry and decided to sink my teeth into another variation of the culinary classic.  Gruyere is also a staple in Magnolia’s Baked Mac, a house favorite, but it is the smoked mozzarella that helps this take on a unique classic stand out from the rest.  As a fan of all pork products, my own version of Mac & Cheese incorporates bacon into the mix, but at Magnolia, the smokiness of the mozzarella eliminates the need for pork, and gives the cheese sauce immense body and texture for a meatless dish.  I did need to add a bit of salt, but I always believe in tasting a dish as it comes before adding seasoning to fit my own palate, and being a chef, I tend to think everything needs more salt.  I didn’t order anything else, since it was my second dinner of the night, but my buddy ordered the crème brulee, which he and I both agree was truly fantastic.

When it comes down to it, the great thing about a classic is that is doesn’t need to be tweaked.  I mean c’mon, no one would ever dare try and modify the lines of a Porsche Speedster or a ’57 Chevy.  The need to influence change on an original is a sign of ego, and is a demonstration of true insecurity.  I love seeing chefs take chances, and I do believe that comfort food is the perfect place to try and put your own stamp of culinary innovation into the mix.  But it is always important to remember that a classic is a classic for a reason, and we must never forget where our food came from.

The Kosher Pig’s Mac & Cheese (Serves 6-8, depending on how hungry your friends are)

2 pounds elbow macaroni
¾ pound bacon
3 Cups Vermont White Cheddar (shredded)
1 Cup Pepper Jack Cheese (shredded)
10 Slices American Cheese
5 Shallots (diced)
2 Cloves of Garlic (minced)
4 TBSP Crystal Hot Sauce
3 TBSP Worcestershire Sauce
3 TBSP Dry Mustard
2 TBSP All Purpose Flour
3 Cups Whole Milk
4 TBSP Butter
Salt
Pepper

1. Place bacon on baking sheet.  Bake in oven at 400 degrees for 15 to 20 minutes, or until about 80% cooked.
2. Melt butter in large saucepan and whisk in flour, creating a very thin roux.  Once roux begins to bubble, whisk in milk a cup at a time.  Make sure milk is incorporated into mixture before adding the next cup of milk.  Once all milk is added, bring to a boil and begin to thicken.  Reduce heat to low and slowly add cheddar, pepper jack, and American cheese until all are completely melted.  Add dry mustard, Worcestershire sauce, and Crystal hot sauce to the sauce and mix thoroughly.  Season with salt and pepper to taste.
   Fill another pot with salted water, bring to boil, and add elbow macaroni.  Cook pasta about two thirds of the time it says on package.  It is imperative that the pasta is not completely cooked, as it will finish cooking when it mixes with the cheese sauce and is put in the oven.
3. When pasta is done cooking, remove bacon from oven and set in paper towels to drain.  Crumble bacon into small pieces and mix into cheese sauce.
   Sweat shallots and garlic in sauté pan with 1 TBSP of butter until shallots are translucent.  Keep heat low so you do not burn the garlic.  Once shallots are clear, add to cheese sauce and stir in completely.
   Remove and drain pasta and set aside.  Once pasta is drained, pour pasta into cheese sauce and mix thoroughly.
   Place Mac in baking dish and place on centered rack in oven at 350 degrees for about 20-30 minutes, or until cheese is bubbling.

** You can always add more cheese into to the cheese sauce, but it is very important that the sauce is not too thick, or it will ruin the consistency of the dish.  Remember, you can always add some more cheese on top of the dish before you put it in the oven if you want a cheesier Mac.

This entry was posted on Tuesday, April 21st, 2009 at 11:45 am and is filed under Restaurants. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.